An Essential Guide to Crete, Greece's Largest Island

Greece’s largest island, Crete is the do-it-all destination of the Aegean. You come for the obvious: beaches, and the resorts that sit on them. But much more than that, Crete ticks many other boxes that make it an immersive European island getaway.

“Crete is known as the Zeus of the Greek archipelago,” says Maria Passarivaki, co-founder of SteMa Journeys, a Crete-and-Athens based travel planner. “The island is a tapestry of stories and has long been a crossroads of people and cultures.”

The incredible history here has been shaped by millennia of civilizations—from the ancient Minoans to the Venetians, Ottomans, and everything in between. But beyond its boundless heritage, Crete impresses with size. Spread over 3,220 square miles, Passarivaki says “you constantly forget that you are on an island,” adding that because you can find snow on many of its peaks (especially the White Mountains on the west), Crete is an all-year destination that can be just as thrilling during the year’s colder months.

Crete’s food is famous. Greeks consider its olive oil, honey, cheese, and produce some of the country’s best. In fact, the island is considered not only Greece’s breadbasket but its culinary legacy is often dubbed the quintessential Mediterranean diet. And winemaking here is in the throes of a renaissance; like much of the Mediterranean, wine has existed on Crete for thousands of years. But a phylloxera outbreak in the 1970s all but wiped out the island’s vineyards. Many farmers abandoned winemaking altogether in favor of other agricultural pursuits, but thankfully the last decade has seen a revival of Cretan viticulture.

According to SteMa’s other founder Stefanos Gogos, “As one of the most important wine-producing regions, Crete is playing an increasingly important role in the new era of Greek wine, a driving force for an excellent future.”

So if you like interspersing sugar-white beaches with archaeological sites and wine tastings, very few islands in the world will rival what Crete has to offer. Here, our guide to its four major regions.

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Chania

In the west, not only does Chania have one of the island’s two major airports, it’s also chock full of cultural, outdoor, and culinary delights. This variety of experiences makes it the perfect launchpad for the rest of the island but it can also be the focus of a more focused itinerary.

What to do: While it might be known for its 14th-century Venetian harbor, Chania actually sits on the Minoan city of Kydonia, so you know that history runs deep here. About 30 minutes east of the airport is the Archaeological Site of Aptera, a compact Minoan ruin with an amphitheater and bath complex. For a more modern take on Greek craft, visit multidisciplinary artist Manousos Chalkiadakis’s studio. While he does everything from paintings to photography, you’re really there for the striking collection of timeless ceramics.

Attention, beach lovers: The commute to Elafonisi Beach’s pink sands is no joke. It’s a 90-minute drive southwest of the Old Town, but the powdery beach and the crystal clear waters justify the excursion. Equally pristine Balos Beach is another bucket-list destination, but you may need to ferry there from Kissamos port. Much closer to the city, however, is Seitan Limania, a beach that requires a scrappy hike down to the bluest of waters. Mind your belongings, a bunch of adorable goats are known to pick through bathers’ beach bags.

More active travelers should strap on their hiking boots and take on the Samaria Gorge. It’s a challenging trek, but you’ll walk past Venetian castles, throwback villages, farmlands, and fabulous views. If you’d prefer a more relaxed adventure, book a boat day with Sailing South Crete, a husband-and-wife operation that focuses on western Crete’s less tourist-y southern coast. They offer a variety of itinerary, and if you’d rather simplify that beach trip to Balos, they can get you there and even add a stop on uninhabited Gramvousa island, too.

Where to eat and drink: Husband-and-wife team Afshin Molavi and Alexandra Manousakis oversee a handful of must-visit venues in Chania, including the organic vineyards of Manousakis Winery, located 30 minutes southwest of town. By the port, watch the sunset from the terrace at Maiami (sound it out!), a design-forward restaurant where you can sip Manousakis rosé while marveling at Alexandra’s artworks, from the whimsical ceramics to the large-scale paintings to the massive fireplace. (All the gorgeous tabletop items are for sale, too!) And then, head over to their restaurant Silas on the other side of the port. Here, Molavi serves a farmer-fresh menu of Mediterranean faves: taramosalata drizzled with bottarga and octopus carpaccio.

You may want to start your day with a pastry from Red Jane, a beautiful bakery located just outside the Old Town. The red marble interiors provide an austere setting to all your favorite European treats, from flaky croissants crowned with a generous heap of almond shavings to a chewy focaccia stuffed with mortadella. For a more modest fish-tavern experience, dine at Evgonia and don’t forget to order the grilled cod. And in the island’s hilly interiors, Ntounias has a cult following for its menu of stick-to-your-bones mountain fare: think goat stew and oven-roasted potatoes. If you’re lucky, there might be chocolate cake for dessert.

Where to stay: Thirty-year-old, 33-room Ammos Hotel has been long beloved for its hip and quirky design scheme and relaxed-yet-thoughtful service. There’s a small rooftop for sunset viewings, a dining room serving homemade Greek food (plus pastries from Red Jane, which shares the same owner), and a cozy pool if the minutes required to walk to the sandy beach become too much to bear. On the other side of the Old Town in the Tabakaria district is The Tanneries Hotel & Spa, a 20-room member of Design Hotels with a much more minimalist aesthetic. Facing a rocky shoreline, the hotel delivers a serene stay thanks to its off-the-beaten location plus a sleek spa with an equally Instagrammable gym.

Heraklion

As Crete’s capital, Heraklion is bigger, more industrial, and maybe less alluring than the rest of the island. But there are perks to staying in this port city. Not only does it have the larger airport but it’s also much closer to the geographic center of the island, making the rest of Crete much more accessible. Bonus: The best museums, archaeological attractions, and wineries are nearby.

What to do: In the southern outskirts of town, the Minoan Palace of Knossos is Greece’s second-most visited archaeological site after the Acropolis in Athens. (It’s the setting for the legendary myth of the Minotaur!) It’s a massive complex of 1,300 rooms that surround a central courtyard. Cisterns, terracotta pottery, and frescoes allow a small peek into Minoan living. Often, tour companies partner a tour of Knossos (do it early in the morning or at sunset to avoid summer heat) with a guided visit to the The Archaeological Museum of Heraklion, where you can get lost marveling at treasures of antiquity, from Snake Goddess figurines from 1,600 BC to the famous bull's head rhyton.

SteMa Journeys can also curate a deep dive into the island’s ancient heritage that includes visits to less known archaeological sites. Guided by a specialist on Cretan history, you can tour the Minoan Palace of Phaistos as well as Gortys, formerly Crete’s Roman capital. They also recommend visiting Thrapsano, a village an hour from Heraklion that’s known for its pottery.

And if you want to pick up a unique souvenir, make an appointment at Studio Paradissi, where artist Eleni Psyllaki dreams up the most striking posters inspired by Cretan culture and history.

Where to eat and drink: “Heraklion region boasts a wine making tradition that dates back centuries,” says Passarivaki. “Scattered among the vines remain a few small household wineries still reminiscent of those times.”

Dafnes, located just 10 miles south of the center of Heraklion, is an agricultural region that runs along a ridgeline overlooking the foothills of Mount Psiloritis. One of the area’s premier producers is family-owned Douloufakis, where you should definitely sign up for the Vidiano vertical tasting. This is one of Crete’s most beloved grapes—a versatile white that the island hopes will soon rival the Assyrtiko. Boutari, which operates a few wineries all over Greece, has one in Crete, too. And the state-of-the-art tasting room overlooking lush vineyards is just 15 minutes from the city.

When it comes to local dining, try Peskesi, a rustic-chic city-center restaurant not far from Morosini fountain. Here, you’ll find tons of traditional dishes, like smoked pork and vine leaves and zucchini flowers stuffed with aromatic herbs and meat. There’s also Elia and Diosmos, with its bright patio and a kitchen churning out Cretan classics like potato with salted cod and snails cooked in vinegar, olive oil, and rosemary.

Where to stay: Less than five miles east of the city is brand-new wellness resort Pnoe Breathing Life, where 60 minimalist pool suites deliver a tranquil experience unlike anything in the area. Of course, wellness is a big draw here, and there is a massive inventory of offerings in the spa, from Barbara Sturm facial and Himalayan salt sauna to oxygen therapy pods. A more family-friendly option, Village Heights Resort offers villa rentals in an amenity-full property (tennis courts, pools, spa) 25 minutes away from the city.

If you’d prefer a city perch, book Plum Guide’s Cretan Rose, a one-bedroom apartment in the heart of Heraklion. The loft-style property, which has a sweet garden equipped with a grill, is less than a 15-minute walk to the archaeological museum.

Rethymno

Most travelers to Crete might split their time between Heraklion and Chania, but smack in the middle is historic Rethymnon (or Rethymno), a vacation powerhouse on its own. There are many beaches nearby, but centuries-old artifacts, especially from the Venetian period, are all around. The walkable Old Town packs in great restaurants and colorful shops. You’ll be rewarded if you take time to explore beyond the city: Like many parts of Crete, there’s a great mix of farmland and natural beauty in the region.

Start with the Old Town, a maze of townhouses, loggias, and fountains from the 16th and 17th century when it was all part of Venice. Case in point: the Rimondi Venetian Fountain—a beautifully preserved relic from that time period. That, along with the imposing fortress and the port, is a larger-than-life piece of heritage, but even just strolling around the alleyways admiring the archways and grand mansions while slipping in and out of souvenir shops offers a great sense of place.

“To us, Rethymno is the most charming old city in Crete, which consists of a labyrinth of flavors, arts and traditions,” Gogos raves. “A city that exudes a romantic mysticism, a city that does not fall into winter lethargy, but remains alive even outside the tourist season.”

You can start venturing away from the Old Town by enjoying as much of the seven-and-a-half-mile beach that stretches from Rethymno to Skaleta. Along the way you’ll find rocky coves, water sports stations, and endless lounge chairs. The southern side of Rethymno—about 30 minutes from the Old Town—has plenty of fantastic beaches, too: Preveli is considered one of the most stunning thanks to the sandy beach and crystal-clear water.

But for even more idyllic waters, Gogos recommends the untouched beaches in Agia Fotini, Triopetra, and Agios Pavlos. “You can see a fisherman pull his catch from the waters and take it straight to the kitchen,” he says.

Where to eat and drink: You’ll definitely want to make a reservation for a meal at Avli; for decades, it’s been one of the best restaurants across the island. The courtyard of this Venetian villa with its mix-and-match furniture is an atmospheric spot for a lunch or dinner of classic Cretan fare, from crispy cheese rolls to grilled lobster served with tomato-loaded orzo.

And in the mountains between Chania and Rethymno, seek out the modest taverna from Nektarios Tsitsiridis in Amoudari village near Askifou. Located on a plateau over 2,200 feet in altitude, the vibe here will transport you to an entirely different side of Crete. Tsitsiridis’ expertise regarding the island’s heartier mountain fare shows up on the Gardoumbakia, a selection of lamb and goat offals stewed with zucchini and potatoes or in the okra in tomato sauce.

Where to stay: A 30-minute drive east of the Old Town, Kapsaliana Village is a cluster of transformed stone houses surrounded by citrus trees and olive groves. Rooms and suites retain their rustic foundation but country-chic interior decor modernizes stone walls and dramatic arches. There’s also an intimate pool, a farm-to-table restaurant, and spacious terraces perfect for sunbathing—all for when you don’t feel like leaving. If you’d rather trade the country for the sea, book Plum Guide’s Sea Shore Garden villa, a brightly decorated two-bedroom hideaway seconds from a white-sand beach (shared with three other units in the same complex). A 20-minute drive from Rethymno, there are amenities aplenty at this family-friendly property: a pool, jacuzzi, children’s playground, and an on-site garden where you can pluck fresh veggies for the perfect summer salad. Early Summer, however, is a stylish two-bedroom apartment that puts you right in the heart of town.

Lasithi

Crete’s easternmost region is generally not as crowded as the rest of the island. Pockets like Elounda have been booming with tourism interest recently, but the eastern reaches of the island is better known for its untouched natural beauty. Yes, Crete’s fanciest resorts are here, “but also fishermen in colorful caïques whisking sun worshippers to far-flung beaches and black robed grannies wandering around traditional hamlets,” Gogos explains. “It is this combination of glamor and unpolished beauty that makes Lasithi stand out.”

What to do: Agios Nikolaos and Elounda are two small coastal towns that have since become tourism darlings in the area. This is where you’ll find the beach bars and the more popular resorts. They are typically the busiest pockets of eastern Crete, but as the island’s stock continues to rise among travelers, many other areas are starting to land on tourism radars, too. Vai Beach, which is flanked by the sea on one side and a lush palm forest on the other, is another lively hotspot, especially in July and August.

From here, take a day trip or two to a few gorgeous islands. From Agios Nikolaos, hop on a boat cruise to Spinalonga Island. You come for the blue bay waters and isolated beaches but you stay for the eye-popping history: This was once a leper colony up until about a 100 years ago. On the southern end, you can also sail from Ierapetra to the uninhabited Greek island of Chrissi, a protected nature reserve where you may spot lizards, rabbits, and other wildlife as you sunbathe on its pure sand beaches.

If you tire of beach chasing and would prefer something more adventurous, try spelunking down the Cave of Zeus (or the Diktaean Cave) near the village of Psychro. Rumor has it this is where Zeus was born. Canyoning guide Manos Petrakis can also take you to Peristeras cave for a three-hour adventure that includes five technical descents; the most hardcore of which is over 50-feet deep. The stunning limestone cliffs, breathtaking narrow ravines, and pretty waterfalls will do their best to keep your heart rate even.

Where to eat and drink: As a visitor you’ll likely have most of your meals at various restaurants and resorts in Elounda. But take it from the team at SteMa Journeys: “One of the best (and still secret) tavernas on Crete right now is in the outskirts of the village of Christos: Yiannis Karalakis' Taverna Agia Paraskevi,” says Passarivaki. Everything about the operations here is a reflection of Cretan culinary traditions: local ingredients; cooking in clay pots, in a wood-fired oven, or an antikristo barbecue. And Passarivaki adds that the available menu is so seasonal, it often changes daily. Depending on when you’re there, you could be tucking into slow-roasted wild goat, stuffed cabbage leaves, or wine-braised rabbit.

Where to stay: In the Elounda, 47-room Phāea Blue’s intimate footprint gives way to surprising delights, from the on-site farm to cozy cinema to the charming caïque that will take you all over the island. A thoughtful variety of dining experiences (from a beach bar to a sea-facing taverna) will give you plenty of flavors to sample throughout your stay. Twenty minutes south near Agios Nikolaos, wellness lovers can check out Minos Palace, a 150-room adults-only resort that just opened a comprehensive wellness hub with a focus on longevity.