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A traveler’s suitcase tells their story long before they get where they’re going—just ask Jennifer Coolidge’s Tanya McQuoid, whose lavender-and-orange monkey print arrival ensemble became as memorable as her final, fateful plunge. For three seasons, The White Lotus costume designer Alex Bovaird has turned the show into a mandatory primer in resort wear psychology, where every unbuttoned shirt and oversized sunhat reveals more about its wearer than their room preference. From Tanya's scene-stealing caftans (may they rest in peace) to those crisp staff uniforms that stay starched even as their wearer’s lives unravel around them, Bovaird's costumes aren't just clothes—they're spoilers with sleeves. Now, as the show trades Sicily's sun-soaked melodrama for Thailand's spiritual awakening, we caught up with the Emmy-nominated designer to discuss how she crafts the show's distinctive look, her journey from fashion industry jobs to Hollywood, and why you should never, ever pack sweatpants for a luxury vacation. Though given the show's track record, perhaps comfortable shoes for running away from trouble wouldn't hurt.
Let's start at the beginning. How did you find your way into costume design?
After leaving school in England, I went traveling in Asia, which ignited my love for other worlds. I moved to the United States at 21, developing a passion for cinema while working various fashion jobs. I loved being around both creative and business people. When I heard about a costume design apprenticeship on a period film shooting in New York [Cadillac Records with Adrien Brody and Beyoncé], I applied immediately. From day one, I was hooked. I found myself running all over the city on missions, working with a team creating movie magic. It's enormously rewarding seeing your daily labor come alive on screen a year later.
Before The White Lotus season three, you worked on True Detective: Night Country—quite a shift from tropical vacations. How did working across such different genres prepare you for creating these heightened yet believable vacation wardrobes?
Night Country came right after The White Lotus season two, and yes, it was a dramatic shift from fluid florals to police uniforms and Inupiaq furs! But every project has its unique setting and characters—you dive into the world through research, collecting ideas and images, then plan how to gather everything you need. Real life is the best inspiration; everyone has a style or preferences, even if unconsidered. Every project trains me better in imagining what my characters might wear. For The White Lotus, we always include an element of logic: What did they pack? How did they envision their week evolving—dinners, poolside, adventures?
How has your approach to resort fashion evolved from Hawaii to Sicily to Thailand? What signature elements carry through all three seasons?
Each location has its own distinct flavor. In Hawaii, you can't escape the Aloha prints, and everyone's more laid back. For Italy, we incorporated shopping finds into the characters' looks—most Americans want to do some shopping there—and dinner time becomes more formal. Thailand still leans into its sense of place: linen shirts, treasures from local markets, and clothes that work in the heat. But across all three seasons, there's this concept of dressing to impress and imagining who we want to be on holiday—more daring and defining than we might be in our regular lives.
Can you walk us through your Thailand sourcing process?
We sourced globally, pulling pieces from the UK, US, and Italy before shipping everything to Bangkok, which is actually a mecca of shopping malls. Once there, we continued acquiring everything from luxury brands to backpacker staples from local markets. We worked with antique dealers, bought Thai silks and upholstery fabrics, and created many pieces in-house. Our traveling warehouse kept growing until we finally headed to Koh Samui for fittings.
What was your approach to sourcing and working with different brands for season three?
There are certain designers we consistently use because they capture the show's essence perfectly—LunaFlo London, Poupette Saint Barth, Oliver Peoples sunglasses, among others. They're all about that chic, fun, cool vibe. I particularly love Tombolo's sense of humor in their designs, especially their collection for a Portofino hotel gift shop. We'd already featured some of their pieces in season two's beach club scenes, so when season three came around, we started early conversations about custom uniforms. The new season includes “spa butlers” for the villas, and Tombolo's cabana sets felt perfect for these characters. The Tombolo team was incredibly accommodating, working with us through tight manufacturing and shipping windows.
What do you want the wardrobe to say about how these people travel, and do you have any favorite fashion moments from the series?
We put enormous thought into each character's wardrobe. While we've developed a certain White Lotus flamboyance, we're always considering their shopping habits, what they're trying to project, whether they're dressing up or down. Dressing Tanya McQuoid was pretty epic—Jennifer Coolidge brought such life to those looks. I've enjoyed creating distinct styles for all our resort managers—Armond, Valentina—and I'm particularly obsessed with Fabian in season three, played by Christian Friedel.
How does the old vs. new money divide come to life in the Thai setting?
Since Mike White satirizes this particular slice of society, most of our White Lotus guests signal their wealth—we sometimes exaggerate to underscore the commentary. We don't really do the "quiet luxury" trend; it's more like loud, raucous luxury. Some old money characters don't necessarily spend a fortune on clothes, but we dress them to look of a certain ilk and from a certain place. It's all in the accessories and details, and many pieces have stories behind them that you might not even notice on screen. Hats were essential in Thailand, though our director of photography was always taking them off for the camera!
Have you noticed real resort guests starting to emulate The White Lotus style? Which elements seem to resonate most?
Interestingly, at actual five-star resorts, I notice much simpler styles than what we show on The White Lotus. We deliberately avoid sweatpants and jeans, and you'll see more high heels at our beach BBQs than you'd ever find in real life. We're putting on a show, after all—it's about entertainment and enjoyment. That said, while prepping season three, we couldn't help noticing how many retro men's camp shirts, tropical prints, and Mediterranean motifs were everywhere. The show's whimsy and fun seem to be contagious. In fact, I recently worked with H&M to design a 25-piece collection that launched on February 20th that captures that bold White Lotus spirit—think 1960s-influenced babydoll dresses, boho crochet sets, and billowing caftans that work from pool to dinner. It's been interesting to translate our show's heightened vacation wear into pieces people can actually pack.
Any universal tips for elevating vacation style based on your experience designing across these iconic resort locations?
Dress like you've always dreamed of—just be bold and try something new. Have fun with color, leave boring behind, and always leave room in your suitcase for local shopping!