Review: Singita Kwitonda

Set the scene.Preceded in the area by Wilderness Safaris’ tiny Bisate Lodge, and more recently One&Only’s much larger Gorilla’s Nest, Kwitonda is another competitor for those looking for something more close-knit, more intimate. Volcanic-stone pathways meander through lush, flowering meadows and cross rushing streams, linking eight statuesque rooms (villa-sized) to the main lodge. Architecture is boldly scaled, many of the building materials locally sourced—oven-fired red clay bricks, river stones, bamboo and eucalyptus poles. The foundations are steel, rather than concrete, to leave the lightest possible footprint on the land. A sense of mystery pervades, knowing that the mountain gorillas are deep in the mist-shrouded cloud forests of the Volcanoes National Park.

What’s the backstory?
Singita’s debut in Rwanda, on the very edge of Volcanoes National Park, makes for a compelling reason to add gorilla-trekking to a classic Serengeti safari. With a well-established network of cleverly curated lodges in the choicest wild places in South Africa, Tanzania, and Zimbabwe, Singita has brought its brand of turbo-luxe design and slick, generous hospitality to Rwanda. Gorilla-trekking has suddenly become very comfortable and accessible, and devotees of the brand, who include Ellen DeGeneres, couldn’t be more pleased. Sustainably built from top to toe, it’s 100 percent aligned to Rwanda’s vision of low-impact, high-yield tourism. Paul Kagame, the president, personally invited Singita to invest here, after all.

What can we expect in our room?
Rich, molten lava colors, a mix of textures, and bold design in everything from the armchairs to the chunky, handmade pottery mugs enhance the experience of being ensconced indoors, while floor-to-ceiling, double-glazed glass is a window to the forest. A living room with a stuffed-to-the-rafters pantry—this is no mere mini-bar—leads one way to a covered veranda with an outdoor fireplace and heated pool, the other to a bedroom and bathroom. There’s dozens of touchy-feely details too, such as scented candles, aromatherapy oil burners, woody incense sticks, and organic bath products.

How about the food and drink?
Less is more in the mainly plant-based small plates and bowls that seem to flow from the open-plan kitchen with dizzying speed, at any time of the day (food is flexible here, whenever and wherever you want it). There’s also a deli fridge in the lodge bar for snacking with a glass of wine or a cocktail. Dinner may be a velvety cauliflower soup and herb focaccia, fall-off-the-bone lamb and fresh pea risotto, and finally a delicate baked pudding with homemade vanilla-bean ice cream. It’s all scrumptious and paired to Singita’s legendary wine list.

What’s the crowd like?
Erudite, very interesting and supremely well travelled—if you ever get to meet them. Gorilla-trekking is an introspective, deeply personal experience, and most guests spend the majority of the day in their room, even eating privately.

Anything to say about the service?
Singita’s reputation for informed, proactive service feels reassuringly intact. The Rwandans are generally reserved, though, so if you’re used to the confident, gregarious lodge staff you usually encounter in Kenya or Zimbabwe, they may seem a little shy. It’s fun to sit at the kitchen pass for an informal lunch and chat with the chefs.

What’s the neighborhood scene like?
Rwanda is widely considered to be the most accessible and safest destination to see mountain gorillas in East Africa. The business of gorilla-trekking sustains the local community who live on tiny, intensively farmed plots of fertile land. There are several other lodges in the Musanze district, although most are low-key and modest. In the early mornings, guests from all the lodges converge on the national park’s headquarters to sip excellent local coffee while they wait to be assigned to a guide ahead of the day’s trekking. Permits have to be booked well in advance, as a finite number are issued per day. It’s all highly regulated and organized.

Anything else to add?
A gear room is kitted out with everything needed ahead of a trek, from weatherproof jackets to gaiters and even thermal undergarments. Families are accommodated in Kataza House, a four-bedroom private villa on the same property. There’s also an on-site tree nursery (part of Singita’s extensive reforestation program) and vegetable gardens.

Anything you’d change?
The rooms are well spaced, which means they are extremely private. However, it can be a trek in itself to walk to the main lodge. Being at high altitude can be a bit breath-stealing sometimes, so the less fit should definitely request the closest to keep the commute as short as possible.

Is it worth it?
Without a doubt. Gorilla trekking is a pretty unforgettable experience for most, so if you’re going to splurge make sure you’re checking into this lodge – the only one that directly borders the national park.