Review: Scenic Spirit

What is the line? Scenic Luxury Cruises & Tours

Name of ship? Scenic Spirit

Passenger occupancy? 68

Itinerary? Mekong River sailing Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam-Siem Reap, Cambodia

Reviewed by Ramsey Qubein

The Mekong River experience is a mix of education, inspiration, and onboard Scenic Spirit, a bit of gluttony, too. You see, this small ship ramps up the amenities in a big way as you glide past small villages, bustling cities and a whole lot of farm land in between each stop. I have sailed this itinerary three times on different lines. I always learn something and come home with a new appreciation of history as well as personal gratitude.

Start out with the big picture—what is this cruise line known for? Scenic is an all-inclusive, amenity-heavy line that includes pretty much everything in the fare. This means everything from butler service and bar tabs to shore excursions and self-service laundry.

Another area where I think Scenic really shines is the ability for crew to remember personal preferences and address all guests by name. As an aviation buff, I regard Scenic to be the Singapore Airlines of river cruising.

Tell us about the ship in general Specially built for the Mekong River, the ship has three decks, and every cabin is a suite. Like most river ships, onboard real estate is at a premium, but I find that Scenic Spirit has a lot to spare. Let’s start with the main reception area, which has conversation seating (often where guests gather before heading into the main dining room).

Climb the spiral staircase up a level, and you reach another passenger deck. Walk towards the aft to find a contemporary lounge with a huge bar and 24-hour snack buffet is at its heart. There are small dining tables for light meals, sofas and swiveling armchairs. I like popping in for coffee here and then taking it up one level to the pool deck to enjoy the view. There is also a panoramic rooftop deck that has a walking track, lounge chairs and herb garden where the chef plucks ingredients before each meal.

Who is onboard? While river cruises often skew towards an older demographic, Mekong sailings are a bucket-list experience that draw younger travelers. You’ll find everything from people in their 20s to their 80s (and maybe even 90s) on the ship and ready for an eye-opening itinerary.

Scenic is an Australian company, and this means that a large percentage of travelers on each sailing hails from Down Under. Aussies are often a lively bunch, and they keep the bar and lounge active from morning to night. Chances are that you will have a great time and make a lot of new friends. The rest of the guest list typically hails from the United Kingdom and the U.S.

Describe the cabins Since they are all suites, the amount of space behind each door is impressive. A spacious living room can be divided from the main bedroom with a sliding panel to create a two-room suite (great for friends traveling together). The bespoke beds have Egyptian cotton linens and mattress toppers, but the real treat is that they are adjustable at the touch of a button (on either side) to make them more like a reclining lounger.

Bathrooms are quite large for a river ship and come with heated floors, wide vanities stocked with Cambodian-made herbal toiletries and glass shower stalls with substantial water pressure. I liked the sitting area by the window, which could be closed off to create a balcony or left open to extend the living room. The window panel lowers at the touch of the button to create a balcony, but with the humidity and heat, I never found the need to do that.

Walk-in closets were another surprise, and there was more than enough space for my belongings. The minibars are complimentary, and my butler allowed me to customize my choices (extra Perrier please).

Tell us about the crew The doting crew want to pamper guests. Most are Cambodian with a few from Vietnam and Myanmar, and their traditional hospitality shines through. What really struck me the most, however, was how interested they were with conversing with guests, learning about where they were from and sharing a little bit about their own background. I have to say, hands down, the crew is the best part of Scenic Spirit (and I haven’t even told you about the cuisine yet).

What food and drink options are available on board? Scenic Spirit has one main dining room, which serves three meals a day. Breakfast and lunch are buffet-style with a live cooking station and a vast array of choices. There is also an a la carte menu that accompanies both meals. At dinner, it is all a la carte, and I cannot explain just how impressive the cuisine is.

At the start of the cruise, the chef asks to meet with anyone that has particular dietary preferences so that the galley can prepare meals to their liking. You don’t even have to stick to the menu choices. If they have the ingredients, they will make you whatever you want.

I really liked how they plate each dish on the menu for display purposes so you can see what you are having before ordering it. This is key given the number of Vietnamese and Cambodian entrée choices on the menu, which may be unfamiliar to most passengers. On my sailing, every single dish I tried was delicious, and I often asked for special requests to try some of the noodle soup or rice dishes that I liked from previous days.

My favorites were things like pomelo salad made to order, Cambodian savory soups (there were so many), the garlic fried rice (I dream of it often) and the made-on-board sorbet using local fruit like dragon fruit or mangosteen.

On several days, there were themed lunch buffets with things like a Cambodian market lunch that was perhaps the biggest hit. You could sample everything from crunchy tarantula to aromatic herb and noodle dishes. My favorite part was how excited the crew became to showcase their local food.

Other options include complimentary room service at any time as well as a lighter menu in the lounge that is the perfect alternative if you just want a quick bite. Don’t tell anyone, but sometimes, I would try both the main dining room and a light bite in the lounge when I was hungry.

Is there a spa on board and is it worth visiting? River cruises are not known for their spa facilities given the limited space. But, the spa on Scenic Spirit is booked from morning to night. When you see the menu of prices, you would be shocked. With $50 facials and massages, appointments can go quickly.

I also thought the sizeable workout room as well as sauna and steam facilities were an impressive offering. For me, the al fresco humidity was its own steam room, but I spoke with many guests that really enjoyed their experience using it.

Activities and entertainment The real experience on Scenic Spirit is exploring the riverside destinations. On a Mekong sailing, many of the stops are not the type of town that you can meander on your own. Instead, you need to participate in a local tour, which include things like food markets, Buddhist temples and one of the most emotionally moving visits to The Killing Fields. History and tourism intersect in this part of the world, but sometimes it can be quite upsetting.

I have done The Killing Fields before, and chose not to do it again. But, my favorite stop on this itinerary is exploring the bustling metropolis of Phnom Penh. There is so much to see and do there, and I love that the ship overnights in town so you can experience more of the destination.

Throughout the sailing, Scenic brings aboard local dancers and entertainers to showcase local culture. This is not unusual for river cruises, but I found the caliber to be really great.

How was the experience for families? You won’t find kids under 12 aboard Scenic sailings, but this is a great sailing for multi-generational family trips.

Where did it sail and how were the excursions? Did anything stand out? In Vietnam, you find yourself docked in towns whereas in Cambodia, the river ship may be tied ashore to a tree branch. This means that exploring on your own is not always possible.

But, that is where Scenic’s free tours come in handy. My favorites were in Cambodia where we spent one afternoon visiting a local school and helping children practice their English. With British, Australian and American guests aboard, the kids loved the chance to hear our accents, perfect their own and tell us a but about themselves at the same time. It was one of my all-time favorite cruise shore excursions ever.

Another was a visit to a local Buddhist temple where we paid alms to young monks, received a blessing in their temple and then had the chance to ask them questions about their life. Both of these experiences represented what river cruises are about for me. It’s not just entertainment, but also self-improvement and personal betterment that come from these local interactions.

The ancient temples of Angkor Wat were the grand finale of this whirlwind cruise, and for many travelers I spoke to, this UNESCO World Heritage Site was the reason they booked the trip.

Are there any stand out sustainability or green initiatives about this cruise? Scenic eschews the use of single-use plastic, opting instead for glass bottles when possible. They also provided reusable metal water bottles that we could refill before we went ashore.

Anything we missed There are many ships that ply the Mekong’s brown waters, but none is as luxe and amenity-rich as Scenic Spirit. I found the plunge pool with an exercise current to be especially cool. Surrounded by swaying palms, this space has its own bar attendant, self-service snacks and towels to use here or on the top deck. If you notice little geckos running around up there, that’s intentional. Scenic added them to the top level to eat the mosquitos so that guests don’t get bitten while lounging there. Talk about thinking of all the little details!

The Mekong River is a lifeline for so many communities in southeast Asia, and Scenic passengers experience all of the culture it has to offer. Scenic Spirit has carved a niche for itself offering an exceptional experience for passengers while showcasing just what this river means to those that live along its shores. Prepare for a life-changing experience.