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Switzerland’s Alps-dotted landscape has no shortage of great mountain destinations. From the glamour of St. Moritz to the high-octane adventures on the Matterhorn in Zermatt and the lively aprés-ski parties in Verbier, there’s a fairytale-esque town for every kind of mountain enthusiast. But those eager to ski off the beaten runs should look towards the canton of Valais, where on a high mountain plateau, you’ll find a Saas-Fee, a car-free hamlet hemmed in by the Alps' 18 tallest peaks—which is also consistently among our Readers' Choice Awards winner for the best European ski resorts.
You may have already heard of Saas-Fee because it provided the setting for Wham!’s music video for the holiday hit song “Last Christmas,” which celebrated its 40th birthday in 2024. In fact, in celebration of that anniversary, until February 2025, a karaoke cabin was installed in the entrance of the village (playing one song and one song only, of course). But if pop-culture trivia isn’t what inspires your winter travel plans, know that Saas-Fee offers some of the best ski conditions in the Alps. Yes, you’re guaranteed jaw-dropping mountain scenery, but with nearly 90 miles of skiable terrain plus over 12 miles of glacier that offers summer skiing, it’d be hard to find a destination more suitable for hard-core snow lovers than snow-sure Saas-Fee. The slopes that surround it are impressive not just because of their size but their steepness, too. No wonder mountain athletes (like Scotty James and Anna Gasser) come to Saas-Fee to train. Here’s how to follow in their footsteps.
How to get to Saas-Fee, Switzerland
Despite Wham!’s valiant effort in the 1980s, Saas-Fee remains one of the Alps’ most under-the-radar ski towns. But it’s not difficult to reach: From either Geneva or Zurich, you can easily take the train from their respective airports or central stations to Visp, the capital of the Valais. Depending on where you catch the train and whether transfers are required, this journey should take approximately two-to-two-and-a-half hours. At Visp, you can either hire a car to take you directly to Saas-Fee, or hop on the local bus, which picks passengers up right in front of the station and takes about 45 minutes. Cars are verboten in Saas-Fee so when you arrive at the entrance of town, most hotels will send an electric taxi to collect guests and their luggage.
Where to eat
From classic fine-dining fixtures to the world’s highest revolving restaurant, tiny-but-mighty Saas-Fee has a surprisingly robust culinary scene. At Zer Schlucht, the most coveted tables are right by the window for views of the gorge, through which glacial water flows, and the surrounding forest. Zer Schlucht’s seasonal and regional menu features stick-to-your-bones mountain fare, like osso buco with root vegetables and apple-fed local pork and pickled cabbage. The chefs at Brasserie 1809 cooks mostly with ingredients sourced from nearby farms and producers. The menu has a lot of dishes that can be described as comfort food, from a tomato-forward pomodoro pasta and a juicy burger slathered with raclette cheese to a crispy rösti.
At an 11,482-foot elevation, revolving restaurant Allalin (perched on Allalin mountain) claims to be the highest revolving restaurant in the world. In the span of an hour-long lunch the dining room slowly turns 360 degrees along its axis, meaning you’ll get to see the full expanse of what makes this part of Switzerland so impressive, including the peaks of world-famous Matterhorn and Jungfrau. If it’s exceptionally clear out, you can even see Milan while tucking into a spicy bratwurst, or a selection of shareable sweets called Grandma’s Emergency Box.
There are more views to be had at the Spielboden, a mountain-top restaurant right next to the Spielboden gondola. In addition to the snow-capped setting, this place is famous for its fantastic Alpine eats for both breakfast and lunch, from the smoked salmon to the beetroot soup and the pork schnitzel. Down in the village, Schäferstube has become one of the most popular dinner spots in Saas-Fee. Stuffed into a charming wooden structure, this two-floor restaurant is all about hearty eating. While there’s definitely regional focus on the menu selection, you’ll also find some international influences: pulled pork sandwich, fish and chips, and a filet of Arctic char marinated in seaweed and kimchi.
And if you’re looking to take an immersive dining tour of Saas-Fee, there are also culinary trails (in both winter and summer) to five of the village’s beloved food-and-drink addresses. Each stop will include a drink and a small taste of what the restaurant, bar, or cafe is known for. But if you’re eager to have a traditional Alpine feast, head to the lower-level wine cellar of The Capra, where a classic (but garlicky) Moitié-Moitié fondue awaits.
The best things to do in Saas-Fee
You are in the Alps so getting on the mountain is likely high on your list of things to-do. Tap the team at Ski Zenit for things like gear rentals and ski or snowboard lessons. If your aspirations are more hardcore, they also train daredevils in ski racing year-round (on the glacier in the summer). Speaking of, Saas-Fee Guides offers tours of the glacier, where you strap on snowshoes, poles, and a climbing harness before following your guide on a trek across this frozen expanse. The nearly five-hour adventure will take you to icy crevices and séracs, or towering glacial columns that pierce the sky. When you get to the top, the jaw-dropping views of the 18 summits will have made the effort worth it.
Another heart-racing venture that Saas-Fee Guides leads is the three-hour canyoning from Saas-Fee to Saas Grund, a half-day thrill-seeking trek across the area’s rugged terrain. You’ll climb a Via Ferrata, rappel down the side of a cliff, traverse a rickety suspension bridge, and even zipline into a cave. It can definitely be a nerve-wracking way to spend the morning, but if you stop to take in your surroundings, the pristine setting of canyons, caves, and waterfalls can help tame the butterflies in your tummy.
Less extreme mountain adventures include night sledging, snowshoeing, and husky-drawn sledding. Or you can stroll around the very compact village before popping into the Saas Museum, a 18th century vicar’s home that’s been transformed to show off the area’s history. But if you really want to slow that heart-rate way down, you’ll be wise to have booked a treatment at The Capra's Peak Health Spa, where creative stress-busting rubdowns include an Alpine message that specifically stretches ski-weary bodies and a therapy that uses warm pieces of pine wood for acupressure and lymphatic drainage.
Where to stay
Sophisticated and cozy, The Capra’s 38 rooms and suites—all with mountain-facing balconies—are spread across a few different chalet-like buildings; a setup that helps ensure quiet intimacy. Locally sourced wood and stones give every corner a decidedly charming Alpine look, with handsome wool textiles and buttery soft leather details layered on top. The cushy living room (with a fireplace, naturally) serves as a warm apres-ski hangout for guests, who gather with steaming cups of hot chocolate or flutes of champagne before heading down to the expansive spa for a sauna, soak, or massage.
Another five-star-stay can be had at Walliserhof, a 73-room hotel by Relais & Chateaux in the center of the village. Walliserhof, too, delivers a quaint, woodsy refuge for mountain-bound travelers: There are three restaurants, a bar, and a cigar lounge plus a spacious spa with a variety of saunas and pools.
If you’d prefer a more private stay, book the Weissmies Penthouse, a three-bedroom villa rental new to the Saas-Fee market. Located within easy walking distance to the bus stops as well as a cable-car station that can whisk you to various parts of the mountain, this glossy home is outfitted with massive windows for those gorgeous Alpine views and modern furnishings, such as an open-kitchen, fireplace, and washer-and-dryer.
