Review: Rosewood Little Dix Bay

Why book?

A once-in-a-lifetime sense of history, a bones-deep connection to its landscape, and only the most sumptuous of service and amenities–in the world of Caribbean resorts, Little Dix Bay stands in a league of its own.

Set the scene

Arrival sets the tone for your stay: As your catamaran from Tortola pulls up to the resort’s private dock (how most guests choose to arrive; although there is a slightly less impressive option to fly to Virgin Gorda, or take a public ferry, then drive to the resort), you’ll be greeted by your personal butler. From there, you are transported immediately via golf cart to the privacy of your room, where the butler conducts the check-in process. You may start to wonder where the reception desk is, but who cares? You’re here to hit the beach, live your best White Lotus life, and let your butler sort all the logistics.

The backstory

The hotel celebrated its 60th anniversary in 2024, opening in 1964 as one of conservationist Lauren S. Rockefeller’s Rockresorts, and now under the stewardship of Rosewood Hotels in 1993. Over those six decades, it has hosted Queen Elizabeth II, countless celebrities and VIP’s, and a loyal cohort of repeat guests–the sort of repeat guests who upon checkout will ask their butler, “Same week, next year?”

There are, of course, many such legacy hotels around the world and even across the Caribbean–but few tell such a story of resilience as Little Dix Bay. After closing for a renovation in 2016, the resort was decimated by the one-two punch of Hurricanes Irma and Maria in 2017, resulting in a multi-year closure until 2020–only to shutter again during the Covid-19 pandemic lockdowns. But now, hurricanes and global pandemics be damned, Little Dix Bay is back and better than ever.

The rooms

The rooms! The renovations brought updates to all forty-two guestrooms, thirty-five suites, two beach houses and two hillside villas with a contemporary-yet-textured aesthetic. Sleek furniture juxtaposed against stone walls (a reference to the island’s iconic boulders), a minibar station that feels homey and not like an after-thought, and comfortable beds perfect for pressing snooze on your alarm clock–there isn’t a bad room in the house here.

We stayed in a One-Bedroom Pool Suite and it was nothing short of decadent, complete with outdoor shower, spacious living area and a private plunge pool overlooking the bay. While some rooms are so close to the beach that you can fall asleep to the sound of waves, no room is more than five minutes’ walk down to the water.

Food and drink

Part of the resort’s multi-year overhaul included a complete reimagination of F&B. The beachside Sugar Mill is an elegant spot for Caribbean-tinged share plates, including a mouthwatering charcoal grilled octopus whose jalapeño aioli I found myself mopping up with a piece of bread. The main pyramid-like structures at the heart of the resort house The Pavilion, which serves a robust breakfast buffet in the mornings and a West Indies-inspired menu for dinner. A lighter “Pool & Beach Menu” of sandwiches, salads and various snacks feels perfect for waterside dining. And wherever the day’s adventures bring you, it’s all roads to the Rum Room come nightfall, where an enchanting open-air bar offers over 100 varieties of rum from around the world. It’s not uncommon to make new friends here, or to overhear guests asking each other, “How many years have you been coming?”

The spa

Within the context of the resort (which already feels like a hideaway), the Sense Spa here feels like the most intimate of escapes. Services run the gamut from elaborate body treatments all the way to manicures, with a cornucopia of local botanicals integrated wherever possible. The Afri-Cure starts with a body wrap made from lemongrass, jumbie and tamarind leaves, as well as a gently exfoliating papaya mask applied to the face, and then a full-body exfoliation using turmeric, honey and local sea salt. Following all of that comes a massage featuring the undulating touch of not one but two therapists. In a word: divine.

Speaking of divine, there is absolutely nothing wrong with the resort’s gorgeous Pavilion Pool down by the main beach, but you’d be remiss not to sneak into the Sense Spa’s much more intimate infinity pool. It’s perched on a cliff with truly breathtaking views of the Sir Francis Drake Channel.

The neighborhood/area

If “tucked away” were ever an accurate descriptor, it’s here: the resort sits at the base of a hilly area that tumbles quite steeply down to the beach, creating the sense that Little Dix Bay is, in fact, secluded unto a world of its own. Should you wish to venture out (and you should), it’s a twelve-minute drive from Virgin Gorda’s famed Baths National Park, where granite boulders and tidal pools are ripe for exploration (and Instagramming).

The service

Service is where this resort shines brightest. F&B outposts run like well-oiled machines, beds seem to make themselves every time you step out of your room, and, of course, the personal butler is on call at any time of day or night. But despite all the pomp and circumstance, the staff here are anything but reverential and subservient; they feel more like trusted friends–especially the butlers, all of whom provide a cell phone number so you can text them for dinner reservations, spa appointments, or to set up beach loungers. They’ll even check you in from the privacy of your room, so there’s no need to visit a reception desk. It’s not unheard of for repeat guests (of which Little Dix Bay has many) to actually request the same butler time and time again.

For families

It’s fantastic for families, without feeling like a “family resort” per se, so kids will have plenty to do, and grown-ups will never feel like their peace and quiet is disturbed. The resort’s Rosewood Explorers program for children ages 4 to 12 is complimentary, and offers a range of indoor and outdoor activities on a range of subjects, from coral reef protection to cooking classes–so much better than some afterthought of a “Kids Club” room strewn with video games.

Eco effort

Eco efforts are part of the property’s DNA, dating back to Rockefeller’s original vision of turning Little Dix Bay into the BVI’s leading ecotourism resort. Today, that means that no single-use plastics are used at the resort, much of the restaurants’ produce is drawn from the on-site farm, and a partnership with the Association of Reef Keepers, a marine conservation organization that provides sea turtle tagging and coral restoration experiences for guests.

Accessibility

All common areas are generally quite spread out via wide, accessible walkways. The staff is happy to transport guests around the resort on golf carts whenever possible.

Anything left to mention?

As there is virtually zero crime on the island, there are no room keys or locks on the doors here. While this might strike some travelers as odd, it actually contributes to an overall sense of residential comfort, or perhaps a sense that luxury needn’t feel so rigid all the time.

Also: while this is very much the type of resort where you can plop down on a beach lounger and spend all day, every day soaking up the sun, there are plenty of ways to stay active, too. Racquet sports are an emphasis here, with six tennis courts (a mix of hard and artificial grass courts), two pickleball courts, as well as some of the Caribbean’s best pros on hand should you opt for lessons. There is also an excellent gym that is spacious and filled with light so you can keep up with your routine–even from paradise.