Where to Eat, Stay, and Play on Milos, Greece
All products and listings featured on Condé Nast Traveler are independently selected by our editors. If you purchase something through our links, we may earn an affiliate commission.
Milos, Greece, was born of earthquakes, tsunamis, and undersea volcanic eruptions over hundreds of thousands of years—and destined to carve out a distinct name for itself. But up until the mid-2010s, the mineral-rich Greek island was little more than an unassuming summer hideaway for doe-eyed Athenian couples. It was there, in 1820, when a farmer accidentally unearthed in a field the Louvre’s prized Venus de Milo (Aphrodite, to the Greeks). This might explain the subconscious pull this once-untouristy outpost had on young lovers. With more than 70 beaches (both sand and pebble) to choose from, many considered among the best in the Aegean, Milos had a single vacay modus operandi since time immemorial: swim, eat, sleep, repeat.
Today, thanks largely to its Instagram fame of recent years, Milos has evolved into a deeply desirable stop on the Cycladic island-hopping circuit with plenty to see and do. Beyond glorious sand, fine pebble beaches, and the now immediately recognizable lunar-like landscape of Sarakiniko, there are sea caves, an uninhabited nearby islet best explored by boat, coastal hiking trails, food experiences, and fascinating ancient finds.
In turn, Milos has seen a much-needed upgrade in accommodations. A string of whitewashed boutique hotels now stud coastal villages like popular Pollonia and the port town of Adamas. Increased demand has resulted in an expansion of four- and five-star offerings. Family-run guesthouses, self-catering villas, and even boat houses converted into short-term rentals round out the choice of places to stay. Smart chef-owned restaurants and laidback traditional tavernas scattered throughout the island embrace local ingredients and recipes. And then when night falls, cozy low-lit bars concentrated in Plaka and Adamas serve small-batch craft beers and creative cocktails.
A version of this story was originally published on Condé Nast Traveller UK.
Where to stay on Milos
Accessible via high-speed catamaran or a direct flight from Athens, the accommodation options on Milos range from welcoming guesthouses and elegant boutique hotels to secluded villas and self-catering suites.
Domes White Coast Milos
Situated in the island’s northeast, this adults-only honeymooner magnet takes its design cues from the characteristic linear lines and whitewashed facades of the Cyclades island group. Architect Giorgos Tsolakis has fashioned 30 roomy sea-view suites, each featuring an intimate terrace and infinity plunge pool with views of Sarakiniko’s striking shores, reminiscent of a moonscape. Book a superior suite with a horizon view for prime sunset-watching opportunities from a private pool. At the on-site restaurant Makris, chef Petros Dimas oversees a fine dining experience, earning its standalone Athens sibling a Michelin Star in 2024.
Captain Zeppos
Long a favorite holiday pad for Milos cognoscenti, this family-run guesthouse is renowned for its warm, personalized welcome and seafront location in Pollonia. Exposed stone interiors, timber, and polished cement floors lend a soothing ambience. Choose from four self-catering color-coded suites adorned with handwoven baskets and wicker lampshades. Parties of up to 11 may opt for the White Villa, which encompasses a sprawling terrace and a hot tub. Aside from an inviting communal pool in the main building, kayaks are available to explore the surrounding coves.
Skinopi Lodge
Nausika Georgiadou fulfilled her greatest labor of love three decades after first stepping foot on Milos. Her remote retreat encompasses seven villas ensconced within olive trees, lavender, and thyme on a sea-facing slope above the minute village of Skinopi. Inspired by traditional fishermen’s houses, Athens-based architecture firm Kokkinou - Kourkoulas designed the stone-built structures to blend seamlessly into the scrubby landscape. In high summer, a brisk meltemi wind cools spartan indoor-outdoor living spaces. A rejuvenating dip in sulphur springs bubbling below the sea's surface, just steps away from the villas, is a must.
Things to do on Milos
Explore Milos’ Wild West with a 4WD safari
Almost all of the island’s wild, tough-to-access western side falls under the protection of the European Union’s Natura 2000, a network of protected natural areas. The best way to explore it is by four-wheel-drive on an insightful full-day tour led by a knowledgeable local guide. Visit an inactive volcano and learn about its morphology, spot migratory birds at the Achivadolimni wetlands, and trek through rust-red caves at an abandoned manganese mine in Cape Vani before cooling off at sandy, little-trodden Agathia Beach.
Take a self-guided hike through history
You don’t need to be a geology, history, or cartography nerd to find the seven Miloterranean Geo Walk routes fascinating. Experts in these fields, together with mining engineers and foresters, created the detailed self-guided online hiking maps on behalf of the Milos Mining Museum, which is worth a visit in itself. Trails of varying lengths lead to the old sulphur mines at Theorychia, a prehistoric obsidian quarry and the Fylakopi archaeological site, among other highlights.
Track down beaches loved by locals
Escape the crowds at Milos’ hotspots and head northeast to peaceful Alogomandra Beach, where locals gather. Arrive early and snare a shady spot on fine sand below a partially collapsed cave. Fewer venture to Gerontas Beach, roughly a 40-minute drive southwest of Adamas, to which you should factor in a 20-minute walk. The waters here are deep and tranquil, and the sand volcanic. Solitude seekers should rent a four-wheel drive and head west to Triades to cavort across a trio of pristine and often people-free sandy beaches.
Sail to dreamy Sykia and Kleftiko
Milos born-and-bred captain Elias Xydous runs one of the island’s most comprehensive full-day sailing tours aboard his trusty 40-foot sailboat Oneiro. Take in views of traditional Syrmata villages before dropping anchor for a swim and snorkel within the wondrous Sykia sea cave, followed by former pirate hideout Kleftiko’s soaring limestone cliffs. Kalogries is the final swim stop and, in between, Elias’ crew will keep you well-fed with seafood pasta, grilled sundried octopus, local cheese, and plenty of ouzo.
Dive where pirates roamed
While it’s unlikely you’ll stumble onto buried treasure, you can don scuba gear and take a closer look at the vibrant volcanic seabed in Kleftiko or inspect the African shipwreck off Sarakiniko. PADI-certified Dive in Milos caters to both novices and experienced divers. If you’re extremely lucky, you may spot a Mediterranean monk seal, one of the world’s rarest marine mammals. A small population of this protected species breeds in the waters between the islands of Milos, Kimolos, and Poliegos.
Party at a panegyri
Mid-July through August 20 is peak panegyri season, a series of feast day celebrations, when small churches and villages host rousing live music and traditional arm-in-arm dancing, fuelled by hearty food and limitless wine, almost every day. On August 15, Zefyria stages the biggest party of all. Flawless footwork is not a requisite; just go with the flow.
Swim off heavenly Poliegos
East of Milos lies Poliegos, part-time home to a shepherd couple and, arguably, Greece’s most surreal blue-green waters. You’ll want to tap Salty Rides for a customized, all-day excursion aboard a speedy RIB exploring the islet’s seemingly limitless coves and peninsulas. If the weather permits, skipper siblings Manolis and Michael Tourlos might take you to isolated Soufi Bay and a fjord in northern Kimolos. Included are take-home beach towels, sea toys, and Milean cheese pies.
Sample cave-aged wine
The geological profile of Milops lends itself well to a centuries-old European tradition of aging wine in a cave. Inspired by Greece’s wine-making heritage, which dates back to antiquity, vintner Kostas Mallis successfully introduced wine fermentation in clay amphoras at the family-run Kostantakis Winery, housed in a cave in Pollonia. Taking this method a step further, he produces orange and natural wines. Sample these unique vintages—produced with Roditis, Savvatiano, and Monemvasia grapes—onsite.
Spend the day on Kimolos
Hop into your rental car and board the ferry that crisscrosses regularly between Pollonia and Kimolos island, whose minuscule size belies its rare mineral bounty. Photogenic syrmata (fisherman’s houses) line the waterfront in Goupa-Kara, where rocky outposts beckon swimmers to dive in. Even more impressive waters, a dazzling shade of emerald, await at Prassa Beach. In cobblestoned main town Horio, follow alleyways to a fortified settlement—and don’t miss Sardis, in Alyki, for home-style fare like eggplant braised in tomato.
Catch a performance at an ancient theatre
While the Aphrodite of Milos may be in the Louvre, the island retains an essential piece of its ancient past in a painstakingly preserved marble amphitheater. Located on a hill above a bay near Tripiti, the monument is thought to date to the Hellenistic period but was remodelled during the Roman era. Reminiscent of the ancient Greek theatre in Turkey’s Ephesus, it hosts occasional theatre and music performances for an audience of up to 700.
Cruise the coast at your own speed
Milos has around 78 beaches, yet less than half are accessible by land. Boat rental is a rarity in the windswept Cyclades, so take advantage of the opportunity to beach-hop at your leisure. Hire a 30-horsepower motorboat from Blue Mile Boat Rentals, for which a boating license isn’t required. Pack a picnic lunch, protective clothing and sunscreen and seek out secret swimming spots like Gerakas, where the sea is an eye-watering shade of cyan.
Best restaurants on Milos
Okto
Chef Nikos Chatzipantelidis and pastry chef Jisun Sung, both of whom have earned their stripes at Michelin-starred restaurants, have proved a winning combination. As co-restaurateurs at Okto, the pair have wowed even the most exacting foodies with contemporary Mediterranean comfort cuisine and delectable desserts. Open for breakfast through dinner, the restaurant’s pared-down look shouldn’t fool you. Highlights include shrimp tartar with candied ginger, cucumber and lime and octopus with bacon powder, fava purée, cherry tomatoes and onion pickles. Make sure to book ahead.
Nama
Pollonia has no shortage of good dining spots. At Nama, apple-green and white wooden tables and chairs are set on the village beach with views of bobbing fishing boats, so prepare to dig your bare feet into the sand while perusing the menu. Classic Greek reigns supreme here, with a few modern takes thrown in for good measure. Choose from pitarakia (local cheese-filled pies), cumin- and garlic-laced soutzoukakia (meatballs) in a tomato sauce, or grilled swordfish filet marinated in citrus fruit.
Kyra
From the people behind ever-popular Yialos in Pollonia, this chic all-day, open-air spot opened in Plaka in 2024. Named Kyra in honor of a 14th-century BCE clay female figurine exhibited in the neighboring Archaeological Museum of Milos, it serves updated Greek and Mediterranean fare. Breakfast options include wild green pie with feta. Roasted beetroot with blue cheese and slow-roasted lamb with rosemary and garlic count among lunch and dinner highlights. Stay on for a signature white rum honey and basil cocktail and live music.
Mezze
After opening in Triovasalos in 2024, Mezze has quickly become a local favorite. This lively, casual eatery serves various Cycladic mezze, such as chickpea fritters from Sifnos, yellow split pea dip (fava), and fried calamari. Pair these with dakos salad, a combination of tomatoes, capers, and xynomizithra cheese atop a rye rusk. For your main, ask chef Vasilis Koutsioumpis if he has taken delivery of grouper or amberjack from a local fisherman that morning and allow him to work his magic.
Best bars on Milos
Verina
After years of living in Athens and spending summers in his native Milos, Stelios Mathioudakis found the perfect location to open a bar in the island’s picturesque hilltop capital of Plaka. He named it Verina, which translates as ‘twisted nautical knot.’ Low-lit and atmospheric, the bar is decked out with timber rafters, fishing net light fixtures, and a seafarer’s portrait. Order the Sailor’s Punch, a mix of aged rum, pineapple, passionfruit, falernum liqueur, ginger, and aromatic bitters, then catch the sunset from the courtyard of neighboring Panagia Korfiatissia. And don’t sleep on the home-style snacks.
Utopia
Seats at this Plaka bar, which boasts a spacious alfresco terrace looking out onto the Aegean, are highly sought-after, particularly when the sun starts to go down and casts a burnt sienna glow on the water. Jazz, RnB, and Greek ballads are the music mainstays at Utopia, while the crowd is a mix of families, couples, and parties of friends. There’s a fine selection of premium spirits, fine Greek wines, cocktails, and mocktails like the Vir-Gin Fizz, an amalgam of zero-alcohol gin, redcurrant syrup, and soda water, plus local cheese platters.
Mostra
Couples of all ages gravitate to this super mellow watering hole for its roomy, elevated seafront terrace, which offers front-row seats to yachts jostling for space in Adamas’ busy port, their lights twinkling in the night. The soundtrack at Mostra, which is part of Hotel Adamas, is mostly lounge music with soft, melodic and rhythmic vibes. Cocktails are of the classic kind, so you can expect the full gamut, from Negroni and Old Fashioned to Cosmopolitan and Aperol Spritz.
Syrma Beer Shop
Who knew that Milos was quietly brewing its own beer, including a golden ale flavored with local thyme honey and a pale ale whose label pays tribute to the Venus de Milo? In Triovasalos, the Syrma Beer Shop tempts with small-batch craft brews from throughout Greece along with their local tipple. Perch yourself on a stool inside this slick taproom, or sit outside and watch the world go by as you sip. On your way out, grab a t-shirt for the memories.
Mosaic
Make yourself comfortable on the giant woven cushions gracing this friendly all-day café-bar’s contemporary Bedouin-styled rooftop for a morning espresso freddo beneath bright blue skies. Alternatively, scale the steps of the stone-built, white-washed building in Plaka for sunset with a refreshing mojito in hand. Be sure to arrive early as space is at a premium. Open from 10 a.m. to late, Mosaic also serves açaí bowls, croque madame and other breakfast treats, as well as delicious pizza for lunch.
Akri
Akri, which means edge in Greek, certainly lives up to its name. Alexandros Desbordes converted his grandmother’s traditional home in a quiet corner above Adamas’ port into a classic bar in 1995. Jazz and lounge beats dominate the three stone-paved outdoor spaces, where patrons can watch ferries silently come and go. Around 10 p.m., the DJ turns up the volume indoors and switches to disco, funk and pop. Akri’s namesake cocktail blends mastika liqueur, gin, lime, grapefruit soda, and cardamom bitters.
