Review: Jade Mountain

Why book Jade Mountain?

Perched on a cliff face above lush tropical forest vegetation, and featuring the most magnificent views of the famous St Lucia landmark, the Pitons, sits Jade Mountain, glittering in the sunshine. This is the magnificent outcome of a visionary collaboration between an innovative architect and the breathtaking natural surroundings that have influenced and crafted its design. But this is as far from yet another luxury resort at an interchangeable exotic location as you can get. Jade Mountain is the perfect destination for commemorating life's milestones, celebrating anniversaries or simply escaping the hustle and bustle to recharge and indulge in luxury. And those seeking to tie the knot will be hard-pushed to find a more special place to say “I do”.

Set the scene

Arriving is an adventure in itself. Guests travel along the steep and winding roads to secluded paradise, with never-ending twists and turns. But as you ascend into the lush hills of St Lucia, anticipation grows. For those seeking a more expedited and exhilarating journey, Jade Mountain offers the option of arriving by helicopter and landing on its exclusive helipad. With a flight time of approximately six minutes from UVF airport and eight minutes from SLU airport, guests bypass the winding roads, soaring swiftly over the lush landscapes of St Lucia. On arrival, the huge wooden doors, reminiscent of a fortress guarding the entrance to an otherworldly oasis, swing open and the resort emerges. Eight terrace levels cascade gracefully from the cliffside, seemingly growing organically from the rocks and lush forest below. I’m struck by how modern and imposing, yet unapologetic, the structure displays itself. Almost Brutalist in style, it would not be out of place as the setting for a Bond villain’s lair. Yet this building feels as if it has always been here, part of the landscape, almost like a temple ruin or lost city in the depths of the jungle that is slowly being claimed back by nature. Fused glass art by David Knox of Lightstreams appears across the resort, playing a pivotal role in its design. Resembling futuristic totem poles, these structures are made from raw concrete pillars, matching the stark design of the building, adorned with stacked graphic shapes of coloured glass. They seamlessly blend into the natural surroundings, evoking the image of precious stones glistening in the sunlight. Technology takes a back seat to the natural splendour in this collision of ancient and modern, natural and unnatural. There are no lifts and no TVs, although high-speed Wi-Fi is available in the guest rooms and the restaurant. Privacy is the ultimate luxury that draws guests to Jade Mountain, and with no external walls in the rooms and secluded vistas stretching as far as the eye can see, it’s easy to understand the appeal. Guests tend to be couples of all ages, here to mark significant life events or just to treat themselves to a few days of pampering.

Speaking with Anthony and Amanda, a charming couple from Devon in their mid-60s who have been loyal guests of Jade Mountain for 12 years, I enquire about their continued return. Amanda explains that, despite trying other destinations, they’ve found nothing that surpasses the magic of Jade Mountain. She laughs, likening its allure to explaining the difference between a diamond and a piece of glass. Once experienced, it becomes the benchmark, setting an unparalleled standard. She concludes, “We might search the globe in pursuit of its equal, but Jade Mountain remains unmatched.”

The backstory

Jade Mountain is the brainchild of Canadian-born visionary architect Nick Troubetzkoy. A journey to St Lucia in the 1970s led to his involvement in the development of Jade Mountain’s sister property, Anse Chastanet, which he became the sole owner of in 1974. Over the past 30 years, Nick and his German-born wife, Karolin, have transformed and elevated Anse Chastanet into a highly successful resort within a sprawling 600-acre estate featuring two stunning secluded beaches. Always seeking the extraordinary, Nick had long harboured a bold vision for a new hotel, built on the cliff face rising above the Anse Chastanet resort, inspired by the island’s Piton mountains. “It’s all about the views,” he says. “Every room must have that perfect view of the Pitons, while enjoying absolute privacy.” Construction on the cliff face eventually started in 2003. Nick's vision prioritised minimal disruption to the landscape, driving his commitment to sourcing building materials exclusively from the island, which, in return, influenced and shaped the final aesthetic and feel of the place. Jade Mountain was painstakingly built over three years, opening to its first guests in 2006. Wood was hand-sawn, concrete mixed and transported by wheelbarrow and bucket, and not a single mechanical tool was utilised. With 500 men working diligently, the project not only provided welcome employment but also allowed locals to showcase their ancient home-building techniques, contributing to the hotel's unique charm and character.

The rooms

The concept of space takes on a whole new meaning as traditional external walls are eschewed entirely in favour of a fully open-plan design, exposing bedrooms to the elements. Thanks to the resort's elevated cliffside location and an average temperature of 34 degrees, this is perfectly comfortable. The bathroom area, situated on a mezzanine level, has a lavish wet room, and the oversized bathtub offers the same breathtaking view as the rest of the room. Of the 29 guest bedrooms, 24 have magnificent private infinity pools, seamlessly integrated into their surroundings. Each sanctuary and its accompanying swimming pool are unique by layout and design; all offer unparalleled views of the lush Caribbean landscape and the iconic Piton Mountains. Recycled glass pool tiles, specially crafted in collaboration with visionary tile manufacturer David Knox of Lightstreams, adorn each pool with mesmerising iridescence, reflecting the surrounding light in a kaleidoscope of colours. As an ode to sustainability and exclusivity, each suite’s pool tiles are one-of-a-kind creations, ensuring a truly unique experience for every guest.

The sanctuaries at Jade Mountain are available in several categories: Sky Whirlpool Suites (without a private infinity pool), Star, Moon, Sun and the ultimate Galaxy level. At the pinnacle of luxury lies the Galaxy Sanctuary, JE1, which offers uninterrupted 270-degree views, from sunrise to sunset, without you having to move from the comfort of the huge four-poster bed draped in delicate mosquito netting fabric, creating a soft and ethereal barrier against any unwelcome visitors. Water pistols are provided for guests to deter cheeky visiting birds, adding a playful touch to the experience. This is the sanctuary nobody ever wants to leave unless it’s absolutely necessary to do so. Why would you ever want to? Do nothing here but skinny dip at sunset, drink Champagne, observe tiny hummingbirds gracefully sipping nectar from the vibrant flowers and stare in awe at the views that present themselves in ever-changing light as the hours pass. The ambient soundtrack of birds, frogs and waves crashing below completes the sensory immersion into paradise.

Food and drink

The Jade Mountain Club offers an exclusive dining experience available solely for resident guests. The restaurant’s infinity pool is adorned with glass tiles that shimmer like fish scales and reflect light in all colours of the rainbow. Like miniature stained glass windows, they catch the light and scatter it in a mesmerising display and provide a captivating backdrop. Open from 7am, the club serves breakfast, lunch and dinner, each featuring a fabulous menu meticulously curated by chef Allen Susser, renowned for his innovative “Jade Cuisine” that celebrates the flavours of the Caribbean. Upon our arrival, we made a beeline for this exclusive venue, where we were greeted with the signature welcome drink, The Bently, a refreshing blend of grenadine syrup, lime juice and soda water with a sugar cane garnish to chew on, served by the charismatic bartender, after whom it’s named.

The breakfast menu features classics alongside local specialities, including St Lucia green fig and salt fish or the innovative Jade Mountain Volcanic Signature Egg: a 60-minute egg served in a glass with creamy spinach, butternut foam, truffle and crispy pancetta. Start your day with a tantalising morning cocktail such as the Emerald Estate’s Herbed Bloody Mary Mimosa or the Café Royal, a unique blend of iced coffee, spiced rum and milk. For dinner, highlights include the decadent Wagyu carpaccio, served with artichoke, shaved radishes, toasted pine nuts and truffle aioli. Local favourites such as yellow plantain soup and grilled rainbow dorado with coconut rice and pineapple chimichurri are simply divine. Save room for dessert: you will be tempted by the irresistibly moreish 70 per cent emerald chocolate dome, made with chocolate sourced from Jade Mountain’s plantation and crafted in its chocolate lab.

And just as we thought the experience couldn't get any better, Viraj Mhatre, the restaurant manager, suggests a wonderful idea: enjoying our drinks on the Celestial Terrace, hovering above The Jade Mountain Club. Although there's no bar up there, we're free to bring our drinks and relax in the cosy seating areas. With nothing but endless space above, we feel like we're on top of the world, adding an extra touch of magic to the moment.

Jade Mountain guests also have unlimited access to all restaurants and bars at Anse Chastanet, which are just a short downhill walk or a brief shuttle ride away. The Treehouse Restaurant, on mid-hillside level, is precisely that. It feels like you are sitting in a treehouse overlooking the ocean listening to the birds and nature. It's also a vibrant spot for post-dinner gatherings, where guests can join in the fun and dance the night away. Peter Jean-Paul, the charming executive manager at Anse Chastanet Resort and Jade Mountain is clearly enjoying the lively and happy atmosphere while organising shuttles for guests wishing to return to their rooms. “It is our mission to make sure that guests are having the best time,” he states with a broad smile, not being able to resist a little boogie to the music himself. Emeralds at the Piti Piton Lounge, meanwhile, offers a delightful purely vegan menu. A must-try dish is sous chef Francis’s pot sticker: delicate Japanese gyoza pastry filled with sautéed cabbage, mushrooms, herbs and chilli salt, served alongside a tangy tamarind and date dipping sauce.

The spa

Since guests often prefer the comfort of their sanctuaries, indulging in spa treatments within the privacy of your own space is a popular option. Picture yourself enjoying a full-body massage right beside your private infinity pool as the sun sets, dousing the space in golden and orange hues. Priceless.

For those able to tear themselves away, a fully equipped gym awaits, featuring top-of-the-line Cybex cardio and strength equipment. The spa offers breathtaking views, with the sensation of running above the tropical forest and gazing out over the endless ocean making workouts feel effortless. To kick-start the day, guests are invited to join a complimentary yoga class at 7am on the rooftop terrace, a truly enchanting setting for an open-air stretch.

The neighbourhood

Just a short stroll down the hill from Jade Mountain are the pristine Anse Chastanet and Anse Mamin beaches, each stretching a quarter of a mile in length and connected by a scenic coastal walk. Here, guests can bask in the sun, sip cocktails, and immerse themselves in the breathtaking beauty of the Caribbean coast’s sparkling black sand beaches.

The hotel has its own dive school and offers access to crystal-clear oceans teeming with diverse marine life. Theresa and Keither at the water sports centre can organise diving expeditions for experienced divers and private lessons for beginners. Daily snorkelling trips are also available, led by Captain Garfield and instructor Lee, who guide guests to explore the vibrant underwater world at the base of the Pitons. We spotted a variety of marine species, including butterflyfish, moray eels, boxfish, French angelfish, blue tangs, lionfish and even one imposing (and very angry looking) barracuda.

A must-do is the Dolphin Sunset Cruise, an enchanting boat journey along the picturesque coastline, passing the stunning Sugar Beach and exploring a fascinating bat cave along the way. As the sun begins to dip below the horizon, guests have the incredible opportunity to witness playful dolphins frolicking in the sparkling waters. The resort's expansive 600-acre property also includes the historic Anse Mamin plantation, which was a bustling sugar cane estate in the 18th century. Today the remnants of its colonial past, including a historic mill where cane was processed into sugar and rum by slaves from West Africa, stand as silent reminders of St Lucia's complex history.

“We need to be respectful of that history,” emphasises Karolin Troubetzkoy, who intentionally preserved the forested acres behind the resort’s beaches. This untouched wilderness encourages guests to explore and gain a deeper understanding of the island’s history.

The service

At Jade Mountain, exceptional service is not just a promise but a cornerstone of the guest experience. Upon our arrival, we were warmly greeted by Elena, our dedicated major domo, whose training at the Guild of Professional English Butlers ensures unparalleled attention to detail. Elena promptly handed us the major domo mobile phone, a direct line for any request or need we might have during our stay.

From providing 24-hour room service, arranging tours and making dinner reservations to delighting you with a sunset bubble bath surprise, the major domos cater to guests’ every desire. Whether organising a private dinner on the beach or atop the celestial terrace, they handle it all with ease. Need a shuttle to Jade from the beach level? Just inform your major domo and they’ll take care of the rest.

It's evident how much pride the major domos take in their work. Their genuine passion shines through in the meticulous attention to detail and the personal touches they provide, enhancing the experience for every guest.

Eco effort

Jade Mountain is deeply committed to ecological sustainability, a value ingrained in its ethos from the beginning. Sustainability isn't just a concept, it's a fundamental aspect of the resort's identity. Owner Nick Troubetzkoy has been unwavering in his commitment to supporting the local community and reducing the hotel's environmental impact. To achieve this, the resort employs various eco-friendly practices, including sourcing local materials such as sand and stone, maintaining a self-contained water supply system with on-site purification, and purchasing produce from nearby farmers and fishermen.

Additionally, the resort operates Emerald Farm, a thriving 30-acre farm that produces an array of crops, ranging from vegetables, microgreens and salads to fruits, spices, nuts and herbs, all destined for the resort's kitchens. Moreover, Emerald Farm has a cocoa plantation, where cocoa beans are cultivated and transformed into delectable chocolate, contributing to the resort's farm-to-table ethos.

Sustainability extends to the construction as well, with all wood sourced from sustainable sources and used in features such as moveable louvres to naturally cool rooms without relying on energy-intensive air conditioning.

With a focus on supporting the community, Jade Mountain employs more than 500 local people – 97 per cent of the staff are St Lucians – reinforcing the hotel's commitment to local employment and environmental responsibility.

Accessibility

This resort is not accessible.

Anything left to mention?

Although visually striking, lionfish pose a serious threat as an invasive species in the Caribbean. Originally from the Pacific Ocean, they have wreaked havoc on local fish populations due to their lack of natural predators and being protected by their highly venomous spines. Recognising that human consumption is the most effective method of controlling their numbers and protecting the local ecology, Jade Mountain has been actively hunting Lionfish since 2009. Fortunately, these fish are also delicious, and guests eagerly participate in the “eat it to beat it” campaign. At Anse Mamin, every Friday is dedicated to a special lionfish dinner, allowing guests to contribute to conservation efforts while indulging in culinary delight.