Review: Hotel Adlon Kempinski Berlin

Set the scene

Tourists, prosperous Berliners, men in suits, diplomats from the surrounding embassies, families celebrating birthdays, honeymooners, and football stars during UEFA , continually throng the lobby lounge and bar under a glass dome that filters a soft daylight onto the the central elephant fountain below of this historic landmark hotel, that is a Berlin institution. The elephant centerpiece, a gift of a visiting Maharajah at the launch of the hotel in 1907 is all that remains from the original hotel, that having survived two world wars, burnt down when invading Soviet troops dropped a lit cigarette in the cellars. When the Berlin Wall came down the subsequent resurrection of Hotel Adlon was a hopeful symbol of the new reunified Germany. Like all great hotels, Adlon, makes you feel that is this is where the action is , but also that it can be a soothing retreat from the travails of the world.

The backstory

In 1907 it quickly became the social hub of Berlin. Charcoal broiled steaks were introduced to Europe at the Adlon and the Kaiser kept an apartment at the hotel which was a lot warmer than his own draughty palace. Visiting stars and heads of state came and scattered their fairy-dust; and the place inspired countless books and films, including Philip Kerr’s popular Bernie Gunther series. Great Garbo announced she wanted to left alone from one of the hotel suites, while another supposed publicity-shy celebrity Michael Jackson attracted attention to the hotel by dangling his baby Blanket over the balcony . The hotel sits beside the Brandenburg Gate, the fulcrum for centuries of upheaval and turmoil . Constructed in 1791 as a monument to peace, it became a symbol of victory when Napoleon marched his troops between the Doric Columns as did Hitler over a century later. Then it became the emblem of the Cold War when the Wall went up beside it and Hotel Adlon found itself in the communist Eastern Bloc. What a sea-change from half a century earlier when only the Kaiser was allowed to pass beneath the arches of the Gate. Adlon’s owner, Lorenz Adlon, a firm believer in noblesse oblige could never get used to the new democracy of the Gate being open to traffic, no longer for the exclusive passage of the Monarch. Forgetting himself Aldon was run over not one, but twice, by passing automobiles and the second time killed him. Then came the second War and Cold War and decades in the wilderness, literally with tumbleweed rolling through the Pariser Platz on which the building stands until the wall came down and the remnants of what had once been a great hotel were resurrected and the new Aldon opened as a symbol of German Reunification under the Kempinski name, once again establishing itself immediately as a social hub in 1997.

The rooms

Cherry wood panelling, gilded frames, thick carpets , marquetry, tassels and silk; the patrician elegance enhances the sense of peaceful cocooning ; no hard edges , no unnecessary high-tech, total sound proofing and bullet porting in the the signature suites . The ligh—filled rooms and windows that you can open look out on the Brandenburg Gate . There can be no more iconic view than this.

Food and drink

Breakfast at the BeL Etage overlooking the Elephant Fountain or with a view over Brandenburg Gate in the formal wood—paneled dining room is a show-stopper with tables laden with different types of bread and croissant, Bavarian specialities that highlight versions of sausage , three types of caviar, champagne, muesli and granola , eggs cooked whichever way you like, a pancake and waffle station. Or you can book the same restaurant for Michelin Starred six courses, or go off-piste with a la carte ( Omelette Surpise prepared at the table with cloudberries and poppy seeds?) at Esszimmer. Despite all the accolades, the service is neither over solemn, stuffy, nor self reverential and it oozes a cosy intimate vibe ususual in starred temples to gastronomy. Brasserie Quarré meanwhile has tables outside and bistro favourites such as bouillabaisse or a Berlin Special; veal liver. Another Adlon classic is the Berliners favourite street food, Currywurst,served Adlon style with gold leaf.

The spa

In Germany it is considered unhygienic to wear swimming costumes in the sauna and steam and there’s a relaxed nudity in the chill-out areas around the Finnish sauna and hamman, the ice baths and ice waterfall. It’s a place that takes its the luxury offering to an extreme when ‘experience showers’ allow you to select the girth of your shower’s water-droplets and where in the Pool bar you can order the Berliner’s favorite street food Currywurst, served Adlon style, with gold leaf. Treatments at Resense Spa include cryotherapy massage to recharge and freshen stressed skin and kickstart the metabolism.

The neighborhood

This is Mitte—ie ‘the middle’, at the very nerve-centre of the city; the hotel on the frontline of history. Fate and geography dictated The Adlon would find itself on the eastern side of the Wall. Since Reunification, the newly rebuilt Adlon takes up an important position on the Unter den Linden, the main artery of the city, a grand leafy boulevard whose emblematic lime trees line the avenue from the Berlin Palace to the Brandenburg Gate. The area is renown for its imposing architecture, embassies , the nearby Reichstag and the vast state park, the Tiergarten, to which you can take you Adlon Bike for an adventure .

The service

With the first flourish of welcome from the footmen at the entrance to the discreet marshalling of potentially difficult customers by the MD in the Brasseries Quarre—an attempt to keep A Lister football stars soothed and toddlers distracted despite a downpour on the terrace—this is the faultless, friendly efficient service of a well-oiled machine. Ladies in Red, the so called brand ambassadors can ‘make ‘your stay; whether it's suggesting outings for your kids or sending appropriate flowers as a thank you. The professional Concierge team can secure any table at the all the best restaurants and for show tickets

For families

From age-appropriate gifts in the bedrooms to childcare provided during the festive celebratory dinners and half price lunches at the hotel, children are very much part of the landscape of the hotel, although the Spa is a child free zone for those under 16.

Eco effort

Kempinski won a silver certificate for its EarthCheck Sustainability program with initiatives for cutting down on food waste and a no plastic policy and recycling of soaps in progress.

Accessibility

With nearby transit stations and the hotels limo service and a bicycles on standby the hotel is a landmark that is easy to reach. There are ground floor suites and access points destined for those in wheelchairs with adaptable bed levels.

Anything left to mention?

Look out for the original art deco elevator clocks which tell you which floor you are on; an antique from the original building .