Review: Aqua Nera

What is the line? Aqua Expeditions

Name of ship? Aqua Nera

Passenger occupancy? 40

Itinerary? The Peruvian Amazon

Start out with the big picture—what is this cruise line known for?

Aqua Expeditions has quietly cemented itself as a leader in the river cruise space thanks to its sailings throughout a handful of destinations like the Mekong, the Galápagos, and the Peruvian Amazon. The floating five-star experience is, of course, part of the draw, but it’s the brand’s ability to take travelers to some of the world’s most hard to reach—and biodiverse—places, through thoughtfully crafted itineraries led by expert guides, that has earned Aqua a loyal following among return guests.

Tell us about the ship in general

I sailed on the Aqua Nera, one of the brand’s two ships that sail along the Peruvian Amazon—and its newest, built in 2020. Home to 20 suites that can hold up to 40 people total, the vibe is as intimate as you can get on a cruise; you’re guaranteed to get to know your fellow passengers during your time on board, whether it be while having a cocktail out on the pool deck as the sun slides down behind the rainforest, or during one of the multi-course dinners served each night. The interiors of the ship itself, meanwhile, are sleek and unobtrusive, courtesy of Noor Design: the spacious indoor lounge area, for example, has big, fluffy cream couches to throw yourself down on, dark leather coffee tables accented by chic design books, and floor-to-ceiling windows that keep the reason you’re on the ship in the first place—the Amazon—center stage. Other small lounge areas, done up in similar shades of charcoal, cream, and chocolate brown, punctuate the two passenger floors, as well as a gym, a screening room for movies, and a small boutique. Out on the deck, there are loungers to unwind on in between excursions, and a small pool to take a dip in—a rather extraordinary experience when the backdrop is the largest rainforest on earth.

Who is onboard?

Aqua Nera’s Amazon itineraries are three or seven nights, so you’re likely to find travelers who have folded this sailing into a larger bucket list trip throughout Peru or South America (one couple I met, who had been traveling for a month, was headed to the Galápagos next). In short, this is a well-traveled clientele with high standards, in search of new experiences. They also hail from all over the world—South Africa, the US, and Taiwan on my particular trip.

Describe the cabins

The soft, muted tones of the main areas extend to the cabins, which are surprisingly spacious (four of them are interconnecting), with comfortable king-size beds to sprawl in and daybeds in dusty shades of gray for any downtime in between excursions. The Amazon theme is subtle—the black lacquered walls are a nod to the blackwater lagoons of the Mirrored Forest—keeping your eyes focused on the view of the Amazon through the floor-to-ceiling windows, a magnificent spectacle at any time of day, but particularly special at sunrise. I kept my curtains open each night so that I could be woken up by the slow burn of crimson and gold lighting up the river each morning. The bathrooms, meanwhile, are small but luxurious, with sleek black tiles and walk-in rain showers.

Tell us about the crew

A small ship means a small crew, so you get to know everyone quickly—from the bartender to the cruise director—and there was never a moment when I didn’t feel looked after. Of course, the reason you’re on board an expedition ship in the first place is for the excursions, and for me, it was my guides Neycer Pizango and Alejandro Enrique Aguilar who truly made the trip. Both were born and raised along the river, meaning they possess a deep breadth of knowledge and understanding of the jungle and its waters, and were responsible for taking us out on skiff boats every morning and afternoon to spot wildlife and learn about the flora and fauna (more on that later).

What food and drink options are available on board?

Overseen by chef Pedro Miguel Schiaffino, expect multi-course meals for lunch and dinner, and a magnificent spread to graze on for breakfast (think fresh fruit like camu camu and papaya plucked from across Peru, and eggs made to order alongside slices of sweet, chewy plantain). Each night was a riff on a different cuisine, but the restaurant’s strengths really lie in the Peruvian menus, with many ingredients sourced straight from the region: tangy, fresh-as-can-be ceviche, slivers of marinated steak over rice, local fish steamed in a thick piece of banana leaf, and rich desserts celebrating Peruvians’ reputation for a sweet tooth. It was an opportunity to try a whole host of flavors unique to the Amazon—flavors that aren’t often exported elsewhere due to how isolated the forest is—which meant that I couldn’t have felt more disappointed than on the last night, when the menu was ‘American’ themed. It was hard to believe anyone had traveled all this way to eat a cheeseburger.

Is there a spa on board and is it worth visiting?

In addition to a gym and the outdoor pool on the deck, there is a small spa where guests can break up a day of excursions with a massage or facial—just make sure to book ahead.

Activities and entertainment

This is an expedition ship, so the activities are mainly out on the Amazon, like piranha fishing (an exercise that rendered few results for my group, but as our guides reminded us, you can’t control nature); swimming in the cool blackwater river which, unlike the Amazon itself, have a pH level that makes it safe to dive into—much-needed when you’re out in such swampy high temps; and canoeing through the flooded forest with members of the Indigenous communities who live along the river. All were unforgettable. Back on the ship, there are ceviche-making classes and wildlife lectures from the guides, as well as an entertainment room and games room. But again, time on ship is reserved for the evenings.

How was the experience for families?

This is an experience primarily catered for adults: the days start early and the excursions often require a lot of patience when it comes to spotting wildlife. In terms of downtime, the entertainment room has Netflix for movie nights, but that’s about it in terms of kids’ entertainment.

Where did it sail and how were the excursions? Did anything stand out?

I spent three days sailing along the head of the Amazon River and into the Pacaya Samiria National Reserve. Aqua’s small fleet of ships remains one of the only ways to get this deep into the region—you're more likely to pass a canoe laden with yucca on its way to nearby Nauta or Iquitos than another tourist boat. One particularly memorable outing was at 5:30 a.m., when Aguilar took me and a couple other guests out to see pink dolphins—as the sun rose above the river, a glowing ball of magenta, we witnessed a cluster of them arch their backs out of the murky, still water. On another occasion, we took advantage of the high waters that had flooded the forest—a result of the rainy season—and wove our way deep through the trees to catch sight of, among other wonders, a lone toucan taking flight. The small moments were just as memorable, too, like when Aguilar tapped me on the shoulder and revealed a tree frog the size of a quarter squatting in the palm of his hand. There wasn’t a moment when he and Pizango weren’t scanning the area with binoculars to point out spectacular sights that an untrained eye, like mine, simply wouldn’t know how to look for.

Are there any stand out sustainability or green initiatives about this cruise?

Ingredients are as locally sourced as possible, and Aqua Nera uses low-emission speed boats for the excursions. As a brand, Aqua Expeditions is an advocate for responsible travel: as of writing, the brand claims to employ 80 percent of its staff locally (this includes guides, and locals it partners with for excursions like the canoeing experience) and invests in conservation programs such as the manatee rescue center near the port city of Iquitos, which we visited after disembarking on the last day.

Anything we missed?

The guides’ knowledge went so far beyond being able to identify wildlife for a group of eager travelers. It helped me understand how humans have not just coexisted with this vast ecosystem, but depended on it for thousands of years. Case in point: During a particular arduous hike through a portion of forest, swarms of mosquitoes began dive bombing us at a volume and speed that no amount of Deet appeared to ward off; instead of turning us around, Aguilar pointed our group to a termite nest, poked a hole in it, and began rubbing the tiny insects on his skin, encouraging us to do the same, explaining that they act as a natural repellent. And it worked—just as it has for those living in the forest for thousands of years.

Finally, give a sentence or two on why the cruise is worth booking.

Sail on Aqua Nera to enjoy all the comforts of a luxury ship, yes, but the reason to book is the itinerary and crew, who will shepherd you through a slice of one of the world’s most extraordinary and fragile places without a hitch.